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I don’t have any spare cables or units. The house battery does need to be replaced as its probably close to 4 years old. I planned on replacing when I get home from offshore at the end of the month. I actually did a full re-wire on the boat a few months back, as well as adding an amp, speakers, lights, new bilges & float switches. All of which are on the house battery along with the GPS. It is getting good voltage to the unit, but maybe the extra load has something to do with it, and maybe that could explain the reason why it somewhat works when slowing down to idle after a run? There were a few months in between finishing the re-wire and when I was able to get the boat in the water, so maybe this could be the problem as it never happened before the re-wire.
I know the installation manuals say not to run transducer cables alongside power wire to avoid signal interference, but it was already ran like that before and it worked. (I didn’t mention that to Garmin support). I would imagine that the majority of people don’t abide by that since there typically aren’t multiple options under the deck on where you can run cable from stern to helm, especially in small boats like mine. I guess disconnecting and pulling the transducer cable all the way back out from under the deck and plugging it back into the unit would be worth a shot.
Garmin did say the transducer is still under warranty, so we’ll see what they do. Just trying to get some ideas to try for when I get home so I can get it fixed for a planned trip a few days after I get off.
